I used a lot of the Games Workshop brand (they're good and thick and have some unique colors) made specifically for modelling and also I'll grab some generic non-name brand acrylics from local hobby shops to fill in base colors (white, red, etc). I don't own an airbrush (money issue) and so I've always painted by hand. Larger surfaces require larger brushes (tanks, so forth).
That's a black leather trenchcoat that the model is wearing. I started out with a matte black to get the base color and then over the folders I used a 3:1 black:camo-grey mix with thick strokes. I then went 1:1 with a thinner brush, then followed by 1:3 to get the final highlight.
Drybrushing (get a dark base color over a model or an area, then take an old -- never use a new brush, ruins them -- brush and dry it lightly against a paper towel and then brush back and forth over a raised/bumpy area to scrape the drying paint out over the surface great for quick shading over a large area) for the dirty look on the tank: http://pics.livejournal.com/cisaac/pic/0000262z/g1
I need to get an example of inking photographed as well, but it's probably the technique I use the lease.
EDIT: Other, really good, model acrylics are Tamiya brand (usually found at any RC/model shop) and Privateer Press's P3 Paints (found at gaming and miniature gaming stores). They're thick, mix well, but are a little pricey coming in at $3 USD per 6oz bottle where you can get 12oz of non-name brand for about $2. The name brands take longer before they harden/coagulate, restore better after they do, dry slower (allowing for blending), cover in fewer coats, and come in a wider array of color choices.
Again, for solid colors like black, white, blue, etc... go with the cheapo stuff. Metallics are something I always buy the high qualities for. The difference is like night and day since the cheapo stuff is all runny and can't cover for shit.
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ninetydegrees
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on 2008-07-04 04:15 pm (UTC)Quick example of mixing and highlighting: http://pics.livejournal.com/cisaac/pic/0000qq4z/g1
That's a black leather trenchcoat that the model is wearing. I started out with a matte black to get the base color and then over the folders I used a 3:1 black:camo-grey mix with thick strokes. I then went 1:1 with a thinner brush, then followed by 1:3 to get the final highlight.
I used similar techniques for the front:
http://pics.livejournal.com/cisaac/pic/0000pk45/g1
Drybrushing (get a dark base color over a model or an area, then take an old -- never use a new brush, ruins them -- brush and dry it lightly against a paper towel and then brush back and forth over a raised/bumpy area to scrape the drying paint out over the surface great for quick shading over a large area) for the dirty look on the tank:
http://pics.livejournal.com/cisaac/pic/0000262z/g1
I need to get an example of inking photographed as well, but it's probably the technique I use the lease.
EDIT: Other, really good, model acrylics are Tamiya brand (usually found at any RC/model shop) and Privateer Press's P3 Paints (found at gaming and miniature gaming stores). They're thick, mix well, but are a little pricey coming in at $3 USD per 6oz bottle where you can get 12oz of non-name brand for about $2. The name brands take longer before they harden/coagulate, restore better after they do, dry slower (allowing for blending), cover in fewer coats, and come in a wider array of color choices.
Again, for solid colors like black, white, blue, etc... go with the cheapo stuff. Metallics are something I always buy the high qualities for. The difference is like night and day since the cheapo stuff is all runny and can't cover for shit.